16
Gear Closet / Re: Amp Alternatives
« on: April 06, 2016, 08:00:39 PM »
Ah, the Fender stuff operates on 120v. I suppose the Falklands are 220-240v. I don't know if they make 220 volt models or not?
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17
Gear Closet / Re: Amp Alternatives
« on: April 06, 2016, 07:13:16 PM »
Well there's the Fender Mustang digital amp series and they are very good for the price.
http://www.fender.com/amplifier-series/mustang/
There's also the Super Champ which has a 15 watt tube output stage and digital preamp. It comes as a Head or a combo:
http://www.fender.com/guitar-amplifiers/contemporary/super-champ-x2-hd/product-2223100000.html
Then there's low watt all tube options such as boutique Marshall 18 watt clones and Tweed and Brown Face Deluxe head clones..ect...
As well as current production 15 watt amps such the Orange Tiny Terror, the Marshall DSL 15H, EVH lunch Box 5150, Peavy 6505 mini, Peavy Classic mini....
From what I read the Marshall code head is only going to be 23" wide, so its a relatively small box head. Even though it's 100 watts those are solid state watts, and digital amps don't need to be loud to sound decent.
It would be a shame to not have a gig or jam worthy option down there. I was talking to an old bandmate drummer friend of mine and he finds himself playing in bands way up in the north Alaska while away on the job for weeks at a time.
http://www.fender.com/amplifier-series/mustang/
There's also the Super Champ which has a 15 watt tube output stage and digital preamp. It comes as a Head or a combo:
http://www.fender.com/guitar-amplifiers/contemporary/super-champ-x2-hd/product-2223100000.html
Then there's low watt all tube options such as boutique Marshall 18 watt clones and Tweed and Brown Face Deluxe head clones..ect...
As well as current production 15 watt amps such the Orange Tiny Terror, the Marshall DSL 15H, EVH lunch Box 5150, Peavy 6505 mini, Peavy Classic mini....
From what I read the Marshall code head is only going to be 23" wide, so its a relatively small box head. Even though it's 100 watts those are solid state watts, and digital amps don't need to be loud to sound decent.
It would be a shame to not have a gig or jam worthy option down there. I was talking to an old bandmate drummer friend of mine and he finds himself playing in bands way up in the north Alaska while away on the job for weeks at a time.
18
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: January 13, 2016, 12:37:40 AM »
I need to post an update, since I solved the noise problem.
I changed the cathode cap on V1 with one of the same value and type. It is an electrolytic cap. This got rid of the nasty hiss and back ground noise. It really lowered the noise floor of the red channel. It was a bad cap causing the noise apparently. The green channel is dead quiet now as well.
But this also brought back some fizz on the red channel it seems. I tried rolling some tubes through V1 to see if that helped. First, I tried an old Groove Tubes from the 80s. That got rid of the fizz and drastically improved the tone. However, it also brought back a little noise. I ended up using a Tung Sol re-issue in V1. No fizz and hardly any noise. That gave it a much fatter and richer tone, especially on the Green Channel. The Green Channel is no longer sterile. It's dynamic with the guitar volume and pick attack and has some swirl now.
The Red Channel seemed brighter than the Green Channel now as well. I lowered the red channel bright cap to 150pf. This seemed to do the trick and its not a really problem sharing the Eq controls.
Overall, the amp sounds really good now. It sounds like a much more expensive amp. Not quite the overdrive higher gain tone of a Silver Jubilee, but quite acceptable, and this amp is no longer headed for ebay.
The Green Channel gets huge clean tones going now. It presents a big sound stage at playing with a drummer volume levels. I'll have to see how well it takes an overdrive pedal next.
To recap the mods:
)Adjusted the bias from 93% to 70%
) Changed the slope resistor in the internal Green channel fixed tone stack.
) Changed the Red Channel from the Lead 2 to Lead 1 specs of that of the big DSLs.
)Rolled some tubes with a Tung Sol RI in V1 when done.
)Lowered the Red Channel bright cap from 470pf to 180pf and then to 150pf.
Replaced a bad electrolytic cap.
The Red channel sounds best through Vintage 30s or Green Backs. The Green Channel sounds really good through G12T75s for cleans, especially in a big room with some natural reverb, but the 75s don't sound good with the Red channel for my style of playing, in my opinion. They just don't sing.
The deep switch is not needed unless your at absolute bedroom volume levels. At gig or rehearsal volumes the bottom end is plenty strong.
I changed the cathode cap on V1 with one of the same value and type. It is an electrolytic cap. This got rid of the nasty hiss and back ground noise. It really lowered the noise floor of the red channel. It was a bad cap causing the noise apparently. The green channel is dead quiet now as well.
But this also brought back some fizz on the red channel it seems. I tried rolling some tubes through V1 to see if that helped. First, I tried an old Groove Tubes from the 80s. That got rid of the fizz and drastically improved the tone. However, it also brought back a little noise. I ended up using a Tung Sol re-issue in V1. No fizz and hardly any noise. That gave it a much fatter and richer tone, especially on the Green Channel. The Green Channel is no longer sterile. It's dynamic with the guitar volume and pick attack and has some swirl now.
The Red Channel seemed brighter than the Green Channel now as well. I lowered the red channel bright cap to 150pf. This seemed to do the trick and its not a really problem sharing the Eq controls.
Overall, the amp sounds really good now. It sounds like a much more expensive amp. Not quite the overdrive higher gain tone of a Silver Jubilee, but quite acceptable, and this amp is no longer headed for ebay.
The Green Channel gets huge clean tones going now. It presents a big sound stage at playing with a drummer volume levels. I'll have to see how well it takes an overdrive pedal next.
To recap the mods:
)Adjusted the bias from 93% to 70%
) Changed the slope resistor in the internal Green channel fixed tone stack.
) Changed the Red Channel from the Lead 2 to Lead 1 specs of that of the big DSLs.
)Rolled some tubes with a Tung Sol RI in V1 when done.
)Lowered the Red Channel bright cap from 470pf to 180pf and then to 150pf.
Replaced a bad electrolytic cap.
The Red channel sounds best through Vintage 30s or Green Backs. The Green Channel sounds really good through G12T75s for cleans, especially in a big room with some natural reverb, but the 75s don't sound good with the Red channel for my style of playing, in my opinion. They just don't sing.
The deep switch is not needed unless your at absolute bedroom volume levels. At gig or rehearsal volumes the bottom end is plenty strong.
19
Guitar Lounge / Re: NBD - EBMM LIII
« on: November 27, 2015, 01:44:12 PM »
Your going to love that all rosewood neck.
20
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: November 27, 2015, 01:38:44 PM »
Well how does the amp do in a gig volume situation with a drummer? I ended up using the Red Channel throughout, because the Green Channel by itself isn't quite loud enough. The Red Channel is loud enough. Channel switching isn't absolutely needed with the modified Red Channel, because it now cleans up fairly well by turning the guitar down, and you don't disappear in the mix. The down sound is the back ground noise on the Red Channel when a note isn't ringing out. Is there a small waterfall nearby?
21
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:26:12 AM »
Okay, I fitted a more correct value resistor (100K) for the gain pot load resistor, and put the cathode resistor by pass cap back in*, with a 10k resistor between it and ground. Success! This amp sounds very good now.
The fizz and sack full of bumble bees buzz are gone gone gone. The red channel now is actually mostly clean up to 3 on the gain knob. From 3 to 4 its more of a crunch, but by 5 its starting to get some serious gain. Up to 5 1/2 to 6 you can get a higher gain overdrive with the guitar volume up, but turn the guitar down a bit and/or back off on the pick attack and it cleans up fairly well. You can just ignore the green channel and play the red channel exclusively if you want. Up to 7 your getting into searing high gain real estate. And its all usable gain, unlike the stock amp. The tone controls now work quite well if you want more cut or a warmer girth.
The amp works this way with my Tone Zone loaded Charvel as well as with vintage output pickups.
The main draw back is that it makes the green channel more or less not very useful. The main purpose of the green channel now becomes loud cleans, or a pedal platform, but this only a 15 watt amp. I may revisit the green channel mods, or de-mod, the green channel now.
I will have to go through and replace some of the carbon comp resistors I used with metal film, because I had them on hand, to lower the noise floor of the amp. The noise level is still unacceptable to me.
* The original mod list calls for just clipping this cap out. But I found that it needs to be in there. The tone is fatter and smoother and the amp has less noise.
The fizz and sack full of bumble bees buzz are gone gone gone. The red channel now is actually mostly clean up to 3 on the gain knob. From 3 to 4 its more of a crunch, but by 5 its starting to get some serious gain. Up to 5 1/2 to 6 you can get a higher gain overdrive with the guitar volume up, but turn the guitar down a bit and/or back off on the pick attack and it cleans up fairly well. You can just ignore the green channel and play the red channel exclusively if you want. Up to 7 your getting into searing high gain real estate. And its all usable gain, unlike the stock amp. The tone controls now work quite well if you want more cut or a warmer girth.
The amp works this way with my Tone Zone loaded Charvel as well as with vintage output pickups.
The main draw back is that it makes the green channel more or less not very useful. The main purpose of the green channel now becomes loud cleans, or a pedal platform, but this only a 15 watt amp. I may revisit the green channel mods, or de-mod, the green channel now.
I will have to go through and replace some of the carbon comp resistors I used with metal film, because I had them on hand, to lower the noise floor of the amp. The noise level is still unacceptable to me.
* The original mod list calls for just clipping this cap out. But I found that it needs to be in there. The tone is fatter and smoother and the amp has less noise.
22
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: November 13, 2015, 09:17:38 PM »
BTW, if your a novice don't try this at home. I have experience playing around with amps and follow the standard safety procedures.
23
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: November 13, 2015, 09:09:01 PM »
Well I finally got some mods done.
Green Channel: Changed the slope resistor of the internal tone stack from 100k to 56k. This is actually a very common mod on black face and silver face Fenders. It makes the green ch sound more like a tweed and less like a silver face. This alone boosted up the midrange and increased gain. It also reduced bass boom. So it did what I wanted. I went ahead and lowered the signal padding resistor as well, but I think I'll go back to stock there. Once that is done, I'm done with the green channel. With the guitar volume all the way up it has some grit, but cleans up when I roll it back a bit. Just the way I like it.
Red Channel: I did most of the established mods for the red ch. I'm not happy with the results yet. But I don't have the V1b cathode by-pass cap in right now, and the added gain pot load resistor is way off spec, because I read the stripes backwards.
Green Channel: Changed the slope resistor of the internal tone stack from 100k to 56k. This is actually a very common mod on black face and silver face Fenders. It makes the green ch sound more like a tweed and less like a silver face. This alone boosted up the midrange and increased gain. It also reduced bass boom. So it did what I wanted. I went ahead and lowered the signal padding resistor as well, but I think I'll go back to stock there. Once that is done, I'm done with the green channel. With the guitar volume all the way up it has some grit, but cleans up when I roll it back a bit. Just the way I like it.
Red Channel: I did most of the established mods for the red ch. I'm not happy with the results yet. But I don't have the V1b cathode by-pass cap in right now, and the added gain pot load resistor is way off spec, because I read the stripes backwards.
24
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: November 05, 2015, 09:48:19 AM »
I found a well stocked electronics store and have acquired everything I need-I think. I haven't had time to remove the board yet, though, and I'm busy replacing filter caps in another amp.
I did pull a 2x12 with G12T75 speakers out of storage. Not good. It accentuated just about everything I don't like about the stock amp. I need to play through G12T75s every once in awhile to remind myself why I don't like them.
I did pull a 2x12 with G12T75 speakers out of storage. Not good. It accentuated just about everything I don't like about the stock amp. I need to play through G12T75s every once in awhile to remind myself why I don't like them.
25
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: October 29, 2015, 09:46:50 AM »
Thanks for the tips and all your comments Dark Blue Murder.
I think the mid range setting resistor in this case would be R75
I think the mid range setting resistor in this case would be R75
26
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: October 28, 2015, 09:43:10 AM »
I finally found a schematic of the DSL-15H:
*The signal is split between V1a and V1b with the red channel driving directly into V1b to create distortion. This signal path dead ends before V2 unless i's switched in.
* The Green (clean ) Ch signal path by- passes V1B but does not go straight to V2. There is a Fender Black Face style EQ section or tone stack (it's fixed internally by the resistor and capacitor values with no adjustment knobs). Moreover, this tone stack is located, as in a Black Face Fender, right after the very first gain stage.
*From there, it's on to V2. Once again the Green Ch signal path is dead ended unless it's switched in. Either the Red or Green Channels are switched in just before V2- at the expense of the other.
*V2 represents the extra tube we would find added to a modded Marshall JCM800 2203, or the typical modern high gain tube amp. Apparently V2A will overdrive if the signal it receives is strong enough (as in the Red channel signal). V2A cascades into V2B.
And V2B also cascades into V3A.
V3B is a cathode follower that goes to the master tone stack, or EQ controls. This is the amp's master EQ section for both channels-although the green channel is pre-EQed
After the tone stack are the dual volume controls (for the Red or Green Chs switched in and out with them) and it's off to the PI and output tubes.
OK, how do I mod the Green CH more to my liking? On the big DSL's the crunch mode essentially by-passes the pre-EQ. The DSL15 doesn't have the alternative circuitry that the signal path for the crunch mode would follow. I could add these on a separate bread board, but all I really want is a little more gain. It looks like I can just change the value of R 76 to get that. I may need to change the slope resistor for the green ch pre-EQ tone stack as I suspect that is why it is so bright.
*The signal is split between V1a and V1b with the red channel driving directly into V1b to create distortion. This signal path dead ends before V2 unless i's switched in.
* The Green (clean ) Ch signal path by- passes V1B but does not go straight to V2. There is a Fender Black Face style EQ section or tone stack (it's fixed internally by the resistor and capacitor values with no adjustment knobs). Moreover, this tone stack is located, as in a Black Face Fender, right after the very first gain stage.
*From there, it's on to V2. Once again the Green Ch signal path is dead ended unless it's switched in. Either the Red or Green Channels are switched in just before V2- at the expense of the other.
*V2 represents the extra tube we would find added to a modded Marshall JCM800 2203, or the typical modern high gain tube amp. Apparently V2A will overdrive if the signal it receives is strong enough (as in the Red channel signal). V2A cascades into V2B.
And V2B also cascades into V3A.
V3B is a cathode follower that goes to the master tone stack, or EQ controls. This is the amp's master EQ section for both channels-although the green channel is pre-EQed
After the tone stack are the dual volume controls (for the Red or Green Chs switched in and out with them) and it's off to the PI and output tubes.
OK, how do I mod the Green CH more to my liking? On the big DSL's the crunch mode essentially by-passes the pre-EQ. The DSL15 doesn't have the alternative circuitry that the signal path for the crunch mode would follow. I could add these on a separate bread board, but all I really want is a little more gain. It looks like I can just change the value of R 76 to get that. I may need to change the slope resistor for the green ch pre-EQ tone stack as I suspect that is why it is so bright.
27
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: October 27, 2015, 10:00:56 AM »
Still have not made in mods (been too busy) but its apparent that DSLs are wicked bright. Just to get the JTM-45 into the same range required diming the treble and presence knobs. And the Red Ch is even brighter than the Green Ch.
28
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: October 17, 2015, 01:15:56 PM »
The project is kind of at a stand still until I can order parts online. Local mom and pop electronics supply stores don't exist anymore. I don't want to place an order until I find out what I need to up the gain on the green channel. I may have to trace the traces on the PCB to draw a schematic, because I have had no luck in locating a schematic.
In the meantime, I read that a 12AU7 lowers the gain on the red channel down to a crunch. That would be not enough gain on the red channel for soloing, so a 12DW7 (reversed?) may not be the ticket anyway.
Playing the green ch with a ToneZone and Bluesbucker loaded Charvel sounded good (gain still dimed). Obviously they have engineered the green Channel for high output pickups. This of course makes sense because that's what most people play with these days. I don't though. I play mostly vintage type single coils and PAFs these days.
The green channel sounds better through a open backed V30 loaded cab than through a closed back cab. It breathes some life into the clean sound if the room is a little dead. This amp could have used a reverb at least for the green ch.
In the meantime, I read that a 12AU7 lowers the gain on the red channel down to a crunch. That would be not enough gain on the red channel for soloing, so a 12DW7 (reversed?) may not be the ticket anyway.
Playing the green ch with a ToneZone and Bluesbucker loaded Charvel sounded good (gain still dimed). Obviously they have engineered the green Channel for high output pickups. This of course makes sense because that's what most people play with these days. I don't though. I play mostly vintage type single coils and PAFs these days.
The green channel sounds better through a open backed V30 loaded cab than through a closed back cab. It breathes some life into the clean sound if the room is a little dead. This amp could have used a reverb at least for the green ch.
29
The Pickup Place / Re: 36th PAF Bridge + Area 67 middle + Cruiser (Bridge) in neck?
« on: October 17, 2015, 12:55:06 PM »
Yeah that would be a good combination and you would use 250k pots throughout. Make sure the bridge pickup has a tone control on it.
30
Gear Closet / Re: Marshall DSL15H project
« on: October 13, 2015, 11:16:39 AM »
The main problem with using lower gain pre-amp tubes, is that I don't want to lower gain on the Green CH at all. In fact I would like to increase it so it behaves more like the Green Crunch mode on the big DSLs.
Just to clarify the signal chain of the DSL: The guitar signal goes to one side of V1. After that the Green CH signal goes on through both V2 triodes and into V3A and then into V3B. The signal is taken from the cathode of V3B to the tone stack (EQ). The amplitude of the Green signal from V1 to V2 will determine how clean and how much gain the Green Ch will be/have.
The Red CH signal is split from the Green CH signal right after V1 and re routed so that that it cascades into the other V1 triode at a clipped level. It then cascades through both sides of V2 and V3, making it five cascaded gain stages at overdriven levels. But I really need to find a Schematic of the 15 watt version. The JCM2000 schem of the DSL preamp design is almost unreadable, it so convoluted and complex. The DSL15 only has Green and Red modes, without crunch, and lead 1 modes.
I have seen some internet postings that 12AU7 side of a 12DW7 actually pins out to the Green CH when used for V1. That would be exactly opposite of what I want. JJ makes a 12DW7 with the triodes reversed, but I don't know how easy it is to obtain that tube in the USA. It might be just as well to mod resistors and capacitors on the board......
The nuclear option is to just gut the amp and use the chassis and transformers to support a 6V6 Vintage /Modern type build.
Just to clarify the signal chain of the DSL: The guitar signal goes to one side of V1. After that the Green CH signal goes on through both V2 triodes and into V3A and then into V3B. The signal is taken from the cathode of V3B to the tone stack (EQ). The amplitude of the Green signal from V1 to V2 will determine how clean and how much gain the Green Ch will be/have.
The Red CH signal is split from the Green CH signal right after V1 and re routed so that that it cascades into the other V1 triode at a clipped level. It then cascades through both sides of V2 and V3, making it five cascaded gain stages at overdriven levels. But I really need to find a Schematic of the 15 watt version. The JCM2000 schem of the DSL preamp design is almost unreadable, it so convoluted and complex. The DSL15 only has Green and Red modes, without crunch, and lead 1 modes.
I have seen some internet postings that 12AU7 side of a 12DW7 actually pins out to the Green CH when used for V1. That would be exactly opposite of what I want. JJ makes a 12DW7 with the triodes reversed, but I don't know how easy it is to obtain that tube in the USA. It might be just as well to mod resistors and capacitors on the board......
The nuclear option is to just gut the amp and use the chassis and transformers to support a 6V6 Vintage /Modern type build.