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Messages - darkbluemurder

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1
The Pickup Place / Re: Anyone try Satch Track in Bridge?
« on: July 29, 2020, 05:32:44 am »
The comparison thread is here: http://www.dimarzioforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,8138.0.html

My guess is that with the Satch Track Neck JS wanted a clearer version of the Chopper to use in the neck, which the published spec seem to reflect.

Cheers Stephan

2
Guitar Lounge / Re: Darth Paul, my modified PRS S2 Standard 22
« on: July 22, 2020, 02:38:56 am »
That guitar has a very classy look. Have fun with it.

Cheers Stephan

3
The Pickup Place / Re: Injector Bridge in neck position?
« on: July 21, 2020, 12:52:47 pm »
The Injector bridge would be the next step darker and more output than the Heavy Blues 2 so if the Heavy Blues 2 does not quite have enough it may be worth a try.

4
The Pickup Place / Re: Noob asking for help
« on: July 20, 2020, 04:04:38 pm »
And here is the diagram to my essay above.

You will note the 330k to 470k resistor between the common terminals of levels 3 and 4. This is a tip from RayBarbeeMusic (many thanks, Ray!). It lowers the load of the bridge pickup in parallel mode to tame excessive brightness. In series mode the resistor is shunted and thus out of the circuit.

Cheers Stephan

5
By looking through the Help functions it appears that you can add attachments to posts but not private messages. Or have I missed anything?

Thanks,
Stephan

6
The Pickup Place / Re: Noob asking for help
« on: July 13, 2020, 01:35:35 pm »
Seems like no diagram on the DiMarzio website matches mine exactly. Most put the neck pickup in parallel or split it, which I do not with the DP240 - I am not even sure if that would be useful as the DP240 is already bright enough in series mode. I haven't yet found my note but I can tell you what I did. I wanted the following positions:

1 = neck
2 = neck in parallel with the bridge in parallel mode
3 = neck in parallel with the bridge in series mode
4 = bridge in parallel mode
5 = bridge in series mode

I used a 4 level 5 way switch (what DiMarzio refers to as "multipole switch", aka "super switch" or "mega switch").  Each level contains 6 lugs, one of them is "common" - this is the one that the others connect to depending on where the switch is set. The individual switch positions are independent of each other, i.e. lug 1 has no internal connection to lug 2 or lug 3 etc. It is only connected to the common lug in switch position #1 but not in all the other positions. The four levels are identical so you can decide which you use as "level 1" and so on.

- I used the first level of the 4 level 5 way switch to control the neck pickup, which means the common lug goes to the volume pot input, and the neck pickup (red lead) goes to the positions where I want it to be heard, i.e. positions 1, 2 and 3. Green lead of the neck pickup goes to ground, Black and White are soldered together and taped off - they are not needed for my wiring.
- I used the second level of the switch to control the bridge pickup. Again, common lug goes to the volume (or to common lug of level 1) and the bridge pickup (red lead if it is a DiMarzio) goes to the positions where I want it to be heard (i.e. positions 2, 3, 4 and 5). Green lead goes to ground. Black and White will not be connected at the moment as we still have to implement the series parallel wiring with the remaining two levels.

For the series/parallel switching of the bridge pickup we will use level 3 and level 4 of the switch. Connect the black wire to the common lug of level 3 and the white wire to the common lug of level 4. As we want them to be connected for the series link in the switch positions 3 and 5, we would connect lugs no. 3 of both levels and lugs no. 5 of both levels.

For parallel operation, the black wire must go to ground, and the white wire must go to hot. This means that in order to get the bridge pickup working in parallel in #2 and #4, lugs 2 and 4 of level 3 must be connected to ground, and lugs 2 and 4 of level 4 must be connected to the volume pot.

That is the switch wiring, and this is the most complex part of the wiring. Volume and tone controls are wired in the normal way in my guitar so you can take a standard tele diagram for that.

Hope that helps,
Stephan

7
Glad you solved it. A bit less output than the full humbuckers is normal - that's part of the versatility of HSS.

Cheers Stephan

8
The Pickup Place / Re: Noob asking for help
« on: July 13, 2020, 02:31:18 am »
Whether 2,3 and 4 are humcancelling in that set up depends on the magnetic polarity, which should be the same if you stick with DiMarzio. But in the normal orientation and wiring my guess is that # 2 and 4 would be humcancelling whereas #3 would not.

I am not sure whether these split positions would all sound different from each other - why not choose both humbuckers for #3?

Cheers Stephan

9
The mini bar (off topic & misc) / Re: Al di Meola
« on: July 10, 2020, 03:07:56 am »
No problem - on the contrary, thanks for your contribution!

10
The Pickup Place / Re: Noob asking for help
« on: July 10, 2020, 03:06:39 am »
I don't like coil splits as they lose the humcancelling effect but if it does not bother you why not?

I worked the wiring out myself. I have to check where I put the notes so I could scan it for you.

I only used a 470k resistor to give the parallel humbucker positions a lower load (approx. 240k) instead of the 500k for the other positions - otherwise the parallel humbucker would be very very bright. It works like this: see the wiring in the link: https://guitarelectronics.com/humbucker-series-off-parallel/

See the two middle lugs? Put the resistor there. In series mode the lugs are connected so the resistor is bridged and out of the circuit. In parallel mode it goes from hot to ground and is therefore in parallel with the 500k volume pot, thus lowering the total load. The formula to calculate the total load is Rg = R1xR2/(R1+R2).

Cheers Stephan

11
2nd thought:  Is your current wiring giving you no hum but thin sound?  Then your magnet measurements are wrong.  Your DiMarzio using black lead is N, therefore lets assume your middle pickup is N, not S. 

If that's the case, wire white hot, green/red together, black ground.

This.

Good luck,
Stephan

12
The Pickup Place / Re: Noob asking for help
« on: July 09, 2020, 12:03:20 pm »
I guess you meant DP-240 mini for the neck position. That would be an excellent choice and would cover the bases you enumerated. It is one of my personal favorite neck pickups. I have two of them in two different telecasters and a third one which is not yet installed in anything.

AT-1 would be a good match. I still have that combination on one of the teles. In the other the bridge pickup is a Seymour Duncan Custom 5 which I preferred as I was looking for less midrange in that particular guitar.

A 5-way super switch is a clever idea. Where space is at a premium (i.e. in teles), the Eyb Megaswitch M is a good solution. I wired mine in the following way

- Neck humbucker
- neck humbucker in parallel with bridge humbucker parallel (excellent tele tone)
- neck humbucker in parallel with bridge humbucker series (same as before but a little fuller in the low end)
- bridge humbucker parallel (this emulates the tele bridge tone quite well)
- bridge humbucker series

Easy to operate and very versatile.

Cheers Stephan

13
Try swapping the black and white wires on the humbucker.

Good luck,
Stephan

14
+1. I only saw one for sale at an Italian online store but otherwise they do not seem to be available in Europe. Not even the big T has them.

15
I cant really swap the bridge and neck because my neck pickup is an SSL-5 and my middle pickup is a RWRP SSL-1. I do have another non-RWRP SSL-1 pickup. Not sure if i can somehow swap that with the current RWRP SSL-1 middle pickup to solve the issue. I'd imagine I would then have polarity issues between the middle and neck pickups?

OK, understood.

If you use the non-RWRP SSL-1 in the middle you will still have the thin sound but with hum. Swap the hot and ground leads and you should be fine with the bridge+middle combination but now the neck+middle combination will either hum or be out of phase. So I agree to Ray that we need to leave the singles alone and adjust at the bridge pickup.

For better advice we would need more information on the polarity of the coils now. If you don't have a magnet to check you can use a multimeter and a pair of needle nose pliers. Put a cable into the guitar output jack and connect hot to the red lead and ground to the black lead of the multimeter. Now set the pickup selector to the bridge pickup. You will get approx. the rated ohms reading. Now put the needle nose pliers on top of the pickup you selected. Then quickly pull it away and watch the meter - did it go up or down in value? Note where it went. Now repeat that with the other pickups and note where the meter went. That will give you an idea of the polarity of the pickups. Do that also with the bridge+middle position for each pickup.

Then we can think about a solution further.

Cheers Stephan


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