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Messages - gtrjunior

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31
Guitar Lounge / Re: 1985 Kramer Beretta
« on: June 07, 2019, 12:23:04 PM »
Try to find a Schaller Golden 50.
I believe that is what was used in Kramer’s early on and later the JB.

32
This forum sucks compared to the SD Forum. So sad! It's really a missed opportunity. Maybe this forum needs an official re-launch via colaboration with the Dimarzio Co.
Yeah, I’m a fan of both brands but this forum definitely needs a booster shot. I’d visit a lot more often if it weren’t so slow.

33
The Pickup Place / Re: DiMarzio releases Sugar Chakra pickup
« on: May 13, 2019, 01:25:51 PM »
I’d love to see a neck version of this pickup.

34
I saw your post about this on the Duncan forum. You closed it down before I could respond.

But a year or so ago I put a tone zone p90 bridge in my LP Special and had the same issue as you. I tried everything to fix it....I even sent it back to Dimarzio for repotting. Nothing helped. It ended up being removed and I ordered a set of Fokin pickups which are perfect.

Anyway, my point is that I don’t think it is so much the Duncan brand. Maybe those pickups just aren’t right in those guitars, through your rig, with the settings you use. Like the tone zone being the wrong pickup for my needs in that particular guitar.
 
As I mentioned in your Duncan thread I have a JB in 2 guitars and play high gain material through a Splawn Quickrod and don’t experience any of the issues you are describing with those guitars.

I don’t know exactly what the cause is for you with those pickups and I hope you sort it out but I don’t necessarily think it’s exclusive to the Duncan brand. I know you weren’t happy with he responses you got from the Duncan community. Sorry for that, it’s actually a good forum. You just had a bad experience.

35
I prefer 250k pots regardless of the pickup.
The tonal difference is not as great as some would have you believe. It just tames the high end a little.

36
The Pickup Place / Re: Help with a neck pickup.
« on: April 02, 2019, 06:32:01 PM »
I have used the bluesbucker in the past too and can say that it really has a big, round singing and well....bluesy tone.
I didn’t split it so I can’t comment there but it is a great pickup, for sure.

37
The Pickup Place / Gravity Storm and RG550 Wiring Help
« on: March 09, 2019, 08:02:32 PM »
Sounds like you need a rwrp middle pup.

That said, I’m no expert but I’d start by looking into that.

Somebody else may be of more help but I think you need to flip the middle pickup wires. (Hot/ground)

38
The Pickup Place / Re: Pandemonium
« on: December 25, 2018, 05:14:54 PM »
I emailed Dimarzio a while back about buying without the covers....it’s not an option.
Too bad too because I have some interest in the pickup. But the cover, not so much. And yeah....the pricing sucks.

39
Guitar Lounge / Re: Tuning problems with Les Pauls
« on: December 11, 2018, 01:21:34 PM »
I went and ordered the aged Gibson nut.

I emailed them and asked about the difference in the black/white....only difference is color.

40
Guitar Lounge / Re: Tuning problems with Les Pauls
« on: December 06, 2018, 04:10:56 PM »
Many thanks for these detailed comments.

90% of general tuning issues people bring me and blame on nuts, bad trems, cheap tuners, etc, are due to loose parts.  Mostly the nut around the peg and the screws that hold the pegs tight.   

I check the tuner nuts with each string change.

You mentioned you have a bone nut.  Bone is fine for acoustics where you aren't bending strings all the time, or (maybe) straighter string pull guitars like a Tele or a strat if you can tolerate either using lube (yuck) or some minor tuning issues.  On electrics, I don't recommend, nor do I personally use, anything but graphtech, and only use bone after a discussion of the above with a customer and at their request even knowing the potential issues.  A properly cut graphtech nut will never need lube, and will stay in tune as well as any other guitar when used on a LP. 

OK, understood. I guess the Tusq XL would work. Does it make sense to go with pre-slotted nuts?

Another issue you have with a tune-o and stoptail type guitar is sharp down angle after the bridge over a sharp metal saddle.  Most people see the screws on the tailpiece and assume "hey it's a screw, lets screw it all the way in!"  but that is not necessary and can lead to  tuning issues, collapsing bridges, etc.  It only needs to be down far enough to create enough down pressure over the saddle.  Also, the string going over that sharp, pointed metal saddle and being bent so it slides a bit can be an issue.  Again, graphtech saddles are the cure for that, and I find they sound very nice on a tune-o type bridge. 

That would be the string saver saddles, right?

If your bridge is loose on the posts and can slide a bit, that can also create tuning issues (as well as intonation issues as it moves around over time).  Tonepros bridges are the cure for that.  I don't think they do anything for "sustain & tone" as they claim, but they DO keep parts from sliding around and from falling off during string changes, and from having to re-do your action height after string changes.   A fairly cheap investment, or get a tap & drill and some set screws and make your own.

OK, understood.

A final issue is string stretching.  Few people seem to stretch their strings out enough.  I grab them at the 12th, yank them up and down, back and forth, then re-tune, and when they no longer go out of tune, they are stretched. 

That's exactly what I do.

So that pinpoints the problems to nut, saddles and bridge movements. I will see which guitar will become the guinea pig to try the suggestions.

Once again, many thanks!

Stephan
These are the questions I have too!!
The XL looks like the one to get.
I wonder if there is any difference in the white vs black. The description of the black makes it seem like it is a bit more “slippery”.

41
Guitar Lounge / Re: Tuning problems with Les Pauls
« on: December 06, 2018, 04:08:55 PM »
90% of general tuning issues people bring me and blame on nuts, bad trems, cheap tuners, etc, are due to loose parts.  Mostly the nut around the peg and the screws that hold the pegs tight.   

With a LP type, you have a huge amount of down pressure due to the angle headstock creating friction, and the string going over the nut then shooting off at an angle to the tuner. 

You mentioned you have a bone nut.  Bone is fine for acoustics where you aren't bending strings all the time, or (maybe) straighter string pull guitars like a Tele or a strat if you can tolerate either using lube (yuck) or some minor tuning issues.  On electrics, I don't recommend, nor do I personally use, anything but graphtech, and only use bone after a discussion of the above with a customer and at their request even knowing the potential issues.  A properly cut graphtech nut will never need lube, and will stay in tune as well as any other guitar when used on a LP. 

Another issue you have with a tune-o and stoptail type guitar is sharp down angle after the bridge over a sharp metal saddle.  Most people see the screws on the tailpiece and assume "hey it's a screw, lets screw it all the way in!"  but that is not necessary and can lead to  tuning issues, collapsing bridges, etc.  It only needs to be down far enough to create enough down pressure over the saddle.  Also, the string going over that sharp, pointed metal saddle and being bent so it slides a bit can be an issue.  Again, graphtech saddles are the cure for that, and I find they sound very nice on a tune-o type bridge. 

If your bridge is loose on the posts and can slide a bit, that can also create tuning issues (as well as intonation issues as it moves around over time).  Tonepros bridges are the cure for that.  I don't think they do anything for "sustain & tone" as they claim, but they DO keep parts from sliding around and from falling off during string changes, and from having to re-do your action height after string changes.   A fairly cheap investment, or get a tap & drill and some set screws and make your own.

A final issue is string stretching.  Few people seem to stretch their strings out enough.  I grab them at the 12th, yank them up and down, back and forth, then re-tune, and when they no longer go out of tune, they are stretched. 

Even my LPs and similar guitars with trems (bigsbys, deusenberg les trems) stay in tune great, but it takes some extra steps to get there due to the non-straight string pull past the nut and the down pressure from the angled stock.
I’m glad I saw this post today!
I have a LP that I’ve been contemplating changing the nut on. It currently has a bone nut but I want to put a graphtech on there.
I was thinking of the XL series.
Is there a particular nut you would recommend of Dino just get the one closest to the dimensions only the current nut?

Sorry...I don’t mean to thread bomb but I figured we could all use this info and it would be all in one place. Thanks

42
Gear Closet / Re: In ear monitors.
« on: November 08, 2018, 01:36:44 PM »
This is just my opinion but I’m not a fan of IEM’s.
Now, admittedly I haven’t tried the high end ones. But I will tell you this.

If you buy a set like the low end basic Shure 215 set you’re going to hate them. They are a single driver set and while vocals sound great your guitar tone that you have worked really hard at to sound pro, will sound like you’re playing inside of a tin can.
For guitar/bass/drums you’ll need a set of IEM’s with more drivers. Now, more doesn’t always equal better. It all depends on the application and what you want to hear in your mix. For guitar you’re probably looking at a quad driver set or minimum 3 drivers from a quality brand....and that’s going to cost a pretty penny.

As far as a sound man wanting to turn you down, I’d suggest looking into a small plexiglass sheild. You can get them at guitar center for about $100.  This way you can turn up enough to get your tone and because the amp is essentially blocked you aren’t ripping people’s heads off with volume.
Then you can turn up your mix in your IEM’s or floor wedge monitors.

Spend some time looking through this website...you’ll learn a lot.

https://alclair.com/driver-ed-driver/

43
Gear Closet / Re: Dragon's Heart Original pick...
« on: October 17, 2018, 03:50:49 PM »
I’ve got a handful of these too. You’re description is accurate. When I first got them it was difficult to get used to them. In time, I of course did and I preferred them over a traditional picks as well. Right now I’m using a Steve Clayton pick. I forget which type but it got a slippery surface and it’s 1.40(?) thick.

44
I can’t speak to he Master but I had (HAD) a 36th anny neck in my LP paired with a Super D.
Like you, I love the Super D but the 36th is super thick and for me, too muddy. Especially in the lower registers.
I replaced it with a Bluesbucker and I like it much more. It’s still thick but the notes are so round and well, bluesy.

45
The Pickup Place / Re: Modification of mounting tabs
« on: August 26, 2018, 06:50:10 AM »
Ill add that a dremel type tool would probably get the job done as well.

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